4.1 Introduction
If you are studying this course, you will most likely have a good relationship with dogs and you most likely care about dogs. You might even have a dog of your own. Though most people love these furry companions, not all of their behaviours are desirable to us humans. The undesirable behaviour that is often exhibited by dogs commonly appears between puppyhood and adolescence and might take the form of jumping on people, destructive chewing, or play biting. While these are all normal puppy behaviours, they're not ones that are a good mix for living in a home with humans.
Genetics do play a role in behaviour and it is common for young puppies to take on some of the behavioural traits of their parents. Additionally, there are some breeds that are more prone to behavioural issues than others, so this must also be taken into account. However, dog owners and those who work with dogs must understand that these behaviours can be remedied with work. It is important that people working or living with dogs that exhibit these behaviours address them, as soon as possible - and this is what this module aims to do.
FACT
Fear and nervous aggression to dogs or humans accounts for about 93% of all dogs that show aggression and most of it was formed in the first 16 weeks.
Source: Doglistner UK
4.2 Aggression
One of the most common and most undesirable behaviours in dogs is aggression. The term aggression refers to a range of behaviours that might occur, for a number of reasons. Almost all wild animals are aggressive at times, especially when they must defend their territory, offspring, or themselves. Since dogs are a bit removed from this, thanks to domestication, saying that a canine is aggressive can mean several different things.
Typically, dogs show aggression in the following ways:-
-Still, rigid bodies
-Deep, guttural bark
-A forward lunge
-Mouthing, which is applying pressure with the teeth, but not biting completely down
-'Muzzle punch', where the dog uses its muzzle, as we might use our fists
-Growling
-Showing teeth
-Snapping
-Snarling
-Nipping at the skin
-Quick bite, that tears the skin
-Strong bites that cause bruising or puncture wounds
-Several bites in a row, with rapid succession
-Biting and shaking
Though some dogs do all of these in order when showing their aggression, not all of them do. Plus, it might only be a second between a growl and a bite. However, it is very rare for a dog to bite, without giving a warning before they act. It is also very important to understand that most aggression is caused by fear. This then means that it's essential to understand the cause of the dog's response to be able to help them to cope with that situation.
Working with Aggressive Dogs
There are going to be signs of aggression in all dogs at some point, even in the gentlest dogs. However, there is a difference between an occasional reaction and problematic aggressive behaviour. One of the first things you should do when noticing aggression in dogs, especially if it is unlike the dog to act in this manner, is to see the veterinarian. Dogs with painful conditions, thyroid abnormality, cognitive issues, sensory deficits, or seizure disorders, might show aggression at times.
Dogs who are geriatric might become confused and exhibit aggression. If a dog is taking certain medications, it might make them aggressive and even if they eat a strange diet, they might be prone to aggression. If the veterinarian discovers a medical issue, the aggression could be taken care of by treating the condition. Because aggression can become quite dangerous, quite quickly, it is important to work on the issue with a professional behaviour expert.
Why an expert?
Because many of the behaviour modification techniques that people use to correct these issues can actually have detrimental effects on the dog if not implemented correctly. Also, keep in mind that an aggressive dog may bite - and even the professionals will get bitten occasionally. These professionals, however, can help to create a treatment plan and will work with owners, to help the dog improve. These professionals will also work with owners to look at the dog's quality of life - and if the risks to humans or other animals are too high and if the dog is too agitated, euthanasia might be the only choice.
Is it Possible to 'Cure' Aggression?
People often wonder if aggression can be 'cured'. It is true that many types of aggression can be reduced in severity and, in some cases, completely eliminated. Sometimes, the only solution is to keep the dog away from its triggers, such as other people, other dogs, or even situations. Dealing and handling an aggressive dog is risky and even after years of being well behaved, something could occur to create a 'perfect storm' of triggers. It is best to never consider an aggressive dog to be cured, even if behavioural modification has worked.
Treating aggressive behaviour will depend on the cause - observing your dog carefully will help you identify triggers:
Fear Aggression: This form of aggression is caused by fear and may also be directed at inanimate objects like vacuum cleaners. Fear aggression can manifest as avoidance or antagonistic responses.
Territorial Aggression: This type of aggression is related to guarding their 'territory' and such dogs may be perfectly normal towards people outside their 'space.'
Rage Aggression: This may have no cause or trigger and is one of the most form of problem behaviours to treat. The dog may suddenly lunge and attack.
Owner-Directed or Control Aggression: This problem should be treated consistently and firmly without using punitive measures which usually reinforces the behaviour.
Possession Aggression: Dogs may display this type of aggression to guard their assets or resources like food, toys, treats or owners and may lunge at other dogs or people who come near his or her belongings or space.
4.3 Barking
Another behavioural issue that is common in dogs is barking. We have already discussed that barking is a form of communication for dogs, but sometimes this barking can become excessive and troublesome. Though barking does have its purpose in the life of a dog, it can quickly become a problem. You know from the previous modules that each type of bark has a function for the dog and if they are rewarded for these barks, i.e. giving them what they want, it will only get worse.
Many dog owners can tell what type of bark it is and determining why the dog is barking is the key to stopping, or at least decreasing, the behaviour. Bear in mind that there are certain breeds that bark more than other breeds, which we discussed in previous modules - and it can be more difficult to tame the barking in these dogs.
How to Fix Excessive Barking in Dogs
The first thing that one must do when dealing with excessive barking, is to determine why the dog is barking.
An easy way to do this is to ask the following questions:-
-Where and when does the dog bark?
-What or who is the dog barking at?
-Is there a specific sound, object, person, or animal that triggers the barking?
-Why does the dog bark?
Depending on the type of barking, there are different ways that one can handle it. One can also use the same methods, to alleviate howling.
Territorial or Alarm Barking
Treating territorial or alarm barking is done relatively the same - and the goal is to block the dog from seeing or experiencing anyone, or anything, in their territory. Obscuring the view that the dog has of the outside world can help, such as using opaque fencing. Crate training can also help with this type of barking and dogs can be trained to go to their crate, when visitors arrive. "Quiet" training is another thing that might work well for this type of barking. To do this, allow the dog to bark until you or someone else says "Quiet." Do not shout, just use a calm and clear command. Simply feed small, pea-sized treats to distract the dog, whilst using the command "Quiet".
Greeting Barking
Greeting barking is also an issue, for some. This is a 'positive' bark, which the dog uses to greet people. You can tell that it is a greeting bark, by looking at the body language of the dog. If the dog is showing friendly body language, one can assume this is a friendly bark.
Here are some ways to alleviate this type of barking:-
-Keep greetings calm and as low key as possible. Train the dog to sit, when people come to the door.
-If the dog likes playing with toys, keep his or her toys near the entrance of the home and offer the toys, when people arrive.
-When walking the dog, distract them with tiny treats, when walking past people, making sure to praise the dog when it does not bark.
-Putting a head halter on the dog when out walking, can also distract the dog. As always, reward the dog when it passes people without barking.
Attention Seeking Barking
Another type of barking is attention seeking barking. This is when a dog barks at us, to let us know he or she requires something. Some people like attention seeking barking, such as when the dog barks when it needs to go outside to relieve itself. In other cases, however, such as when the dog barks to receive a treat, this can become a bad pattern. The trick to fixing this is to stop rewarding the dog for barking.
Though it sounds simple, this is much more difficult than it might seem, as dogs see all types of interactions as rewards. Even making eye contact with the dog is seen as a reward, for many animals. Experts recommend looking at the ceiling, walking out of the room, or turning
away from the dog, as soon as it begins to bark for attention. As soon as the dog stops barking, then praise the dog.
Compulsive Barking
Dogs will sometimes become compulsive barkers. This is when they bark, when in situations that are not typical. Others simply bark repetitively, for a long time. Generally, these dogs bark at things that other dogs don't, such as shadows, mirrors, lights, the sky, or doors. These dogs also often engage in repetitive behaviours when barking compulsively, such as circling, spinning, or jumping.
Compulsive barking is almost always a behavioural issue, which means the best method of treatment is with the assistance of an animal behaviourist, or professional dog trainer. A veterinarian can often recommend someone who has experience with compulsive barking.
4.4 Destructive Chewing
Chewing is a normal behaviour for puppies and dogs - and it actually accomplishes a few things. For younger dogs, chewing is a way to relieve the pain of teething. For older dogs, chewing helps to keep the teeth clean and jaws strong. Chewing is also an action that helps dogs with anxiety, frustration and boredom.
Depending on the reason for the chewing, there are different methods to remedy the issue, but here are some general tips:-
-Make sure the home is 'dog proof', by putting valuable object away, such as clothing and shoes.
-The dog should have access to toys and chew bones. Observe the dog and find out what toys they prefer and offer toys similar to that toy. If you want to offer your dog a bone, only offer natural bones, never cooked bones. Talk to a veterinarian, for bone suggestions.
-Try to identify the time(s) of day when the dog is likely to chew and then try to give them something to chew on, before that time comes.
-Discourage inappropriate chewing, by spraying items the dog should not chew on with a deterrent. These sprays are available in pet shops or other stores and a vet might even recommend some natural chewing deterrents, such as citrus spray, apple cider vinegar, or chilli pepper.
-Supervise the dog, as much as possible and tell them “No", when seeing them chew on something they should not - and then replace that item with something the dog is allowed to chew. Praise the dog, when it begins to chew on the new item. If the dog might react in an aggressive manner, seek out the expertise of a professional trainer or behaviourist. If you cannot supervise your dog during the day, consider confining the dog in a crate or in a small room. Make sure these areas are clear of anything they might find appealing to chew on.
Some responsibility lies with the owner, when looking at dogs that chew. If you do not want your dog to chew on something, such as your shoes, the simple solution is to pick them up.
Finally, when dealing with dogs that chew, avoid the following:-
-Do not hit or punish the dog. It cannot connect this punishment with the behaviour they might have done hours, or even minutes, in the past.
-Do not use tape or rope to hold the mouth closed, to prevent chewing.
-Do not muzzle the dog, to prevent chewing.
4.5 Mouthing, Nipping, and Biting
This course has already explained that mouthing, nipping and biting are behaviours that are normal for dogs, especially puppies, but there is obviously a danger to this. Though it might be cute to see a puppy play, mouth and bite, at the same time, when they become adults, these bites hurt - and they can cause injury.
Playful or Aggressive Biting?
The act of mouthing is quite normal, but some dogs will certainly bite out of frustration. It is difficult to tell the difference between behaviour that is simply playful or is aggressive, so it is important to look at the dog's body language. Dogs who are playing will have a relaxed body and face. Aggressive dogs will be stiff and often pull their lips back to expose the teeth. As mentioned, if you suspect aggressive biting, it is best to contact a veterinarian or a professional animal behaviourist or trainer.
The tips below can help.
One method of stopping biting in its tracks is to teach your dog how to be gentle, through bite inhibition. This refers to the ability of a dog to control the force with which they bite. Puppies, especially, do not understand that human skin is sensitive, so they often bite hard, even when they do not mean to hurt you. Young dogs usually learn how to control their bite, when playing with larger dogs - and it is not uncommon to hear yelps from young dogs, who are playing too rough. If you have a dog that has not quite learned bite inhibition, there are some things one can do.
For instance Allow the dog to mouth your hands. When they bite too hard, make a yelping sound. Praise the dog for stopping and then resume play. When the dog bites too hard again, yelp again. Another method is to yelp and then walk away. Stay away for a minute or so and then return to play. This method works well for older dogs. The goal of this part of training is for your dog to mouth a human, without pain.
Once the dog understands that it must be gentle with the mouth, you should teach it how to avoid mouthing altogether. Do be aware that 'yelping' can have the opposite effect with some dogs who find it very exciting. This is then likely to cause them to mouth even more. If you notice this response in your dog, then you should just end the game and leave the room the very moment that the mouthing becomes too hard.
Here are some tips:-
-Offer chew bones or toys when a dog starts gnawing on your body.
-Distract the dog, by feeding them small treats, when they begin mouthing.
-Introduce types of play that do not require contact, such as tug-of-war or fetch.
-Teaching impulse control, by telling the dog to sit, stay and “leave it", can also help.
-Dogs that bite the feet or ankles can also be distracted by toys. If you do not have a toy available, stop moving as soon as the dog begins mouthing. As soon as the mouthing stops, praise the dog and give it a reward.
-Some dogs mouth because they are bored, so make sure to always offer new toys to the dog.
-Dogs also might mouth if they have a lot of pent-up energy, so scheduling play dates with other dogs can help to get rid of this energy.
-Deterrents might also work well for mouthing. Put the deterrent on the parts of the body that the dog often mouths and then start playing with the dog. When it lets go, praise the dog.
4.6 Separation Anxiety
One of the most common pet owner complaints is that their dogs become destructive or disruptive when left alone. These dogs might show symptoms such as barking, urinating, howling, chewing, digging, or other behaviours. This usually happens because the dog is either distressed or frustrated at being left alone. It can result in the destruction of the home, especially around doors and windows, or it can injure the dog. When working with a dog that displays symptoms of separation anxiety, it is important to focus on enjoying, or at a minimum, tolerating, being alone.
Mild Separation Anxiety Treatment
For dogs with mild separation anxiety, one can reduce the symptoms by counterconditioning. This is when you can change the negative feelings to positive ones. This is done by associating the fearful situation with something that the dog loves. Over time, the dog will learn that what they fear is actually something that is good for them. To develop the association, when leaving the home, offer the dog a puzzle toy, such as a KONG with a biscuit that will keep the dog busy for 20 to 30 minutes. As soon as you come back home, take the toy. This way, the toy becomes special - and they will only have access to it when you leave.
Moderate or Severe Separation Anxiety
In the case of moderate or severe separation anxiety, one must gradually get the dog used to being alone - and this can take several weeks. Firstly, you must get the dog used to understanding that you will leave. These are known as 'pre-departure cues' and these actions, such as picking up the car keys, show the dog that their owners are leaving. The trick here is to do the 'pre-departure action', but do not leave. Do this several times a day, but do not leave. This helps to reduce anxiety because the cue does not always lead to departure. As the dog becomes more used to this, you can start to "be away" from the dog for longer periods of time - but do not leave. Instead, go into a room of the home and close the door, not allowing your dog to come with you.
At first, only stay in the room for a minute or so but then gradually do it for longer periods of time. Then, start doing your "pre- departure cues" and go in the room, leaving the dog alone. For some dogs, the door being closed may be too much for them to cope with to begin with. In this situation, a stairgate can be a perfect solution in allowing you to be separate from your dog but for them to still be able to see you. The last stage is to actually leave the home but only for a few seconds. Gradually creep back in through another door, if possible. Always remain calm, and remember, if any of this doesn't work, it is important to contact a professional animal behaviourist.
Module Summary
Most dog owners, or those who work with dogs, are very familiar with the common negative behaviours that dog exhibit. However, most of these people do not understand how to remedy these behaviours. Chewing, biting, barking and other behaviours are often also misunderstood, but they are quite common. Fortunately, there are methods to change this behaviour, at home or with the help of a behaviourist. In many cases, taking the time to thoroughly understand these issues is all that is required, to take care of the problem. This module discussed several methods for dealing with canine behavioural problems, including issues with aggression, barking, chewing, separation anxiety and biting. It also presented situations where it is appropriate to contact the experts, such as veterinarians and pet behaviourists. Most of these issues can be taken care of over time, but it does take patience and perseverance.
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