Painting and Wallpapering

4.1 Introduction

The previous module taught you all you need to know about how to prepare to paint, and now, in this module, you can take that knowledge and learn to turn it into action. In addition, this module will focus on the basics of wallpapering and tiling. As you work through this fourth module, try to keep the information from the previous modules in mind.

Activity #1

Estimated Time: 10 minutes

In the previous module, you learned the wall surfaces and the types of paint you will be using in your career as a painting and decorating professional. As you move forward in this module, you are now ready to paint. Before you begin, it is important to ensure that you are prepared with the proper tools for the job. For a regular painting job, you will need a paint kettle, a rolling brush, white spirit, a filing knife, a dust sheet, a pad and tray, an extension pole, and a radiator brush. Once you have gathered your tools, think back on what you learned in the previous modules, and prepare your wall surface for painting. Your next step involves applying short strips of painter's tape around the baseboards, windows, doorframes, and anywhere else you do not want to be painted. Keep in mind that there are different levels of adhesion for various types of paint, so be sure that you are using the correct one. The last and final step involves protecting the floor with a dust cloth.

*Now that your room is ready for painting what is the next step?

*What are the steps you would take to prime the surface?

*How can you prepare the primer for paint?

4.2 Getting Ready to Paint

We have already discussed several tools you will need to have on hand when working in the painting and decorating industry, but there are some that are specific to painting. If you are simply painting without anything fancy, you will require a paint kettle, rolling brush, white spirit, filing knife, dust sheet, pad and tray, extension pole, and radiator brush. You will also require paint, of course, as well as primer and undercoat. Remember, there are different types of paints, primers, and undercoats, so make sure to choose the appropriate type. You should also make sure that the wall surface is prepared and cleaned, a process that was described in the previous module. The next thing that you should do is to apply painter's tape to the surface. There are different levels of adhesion for painter's tape, so again, make sure that you are using the correct type of paint. If the ceiling of the room that you are painting is not textured, the painting tape should be placed on the edge where the wall and ceiling meet.

Apply short strips of tape in an overlapping manner, making sure that you press the tape firmly in order to prevent the paint from bleeding through. If the ceiling is textured, you will place the tape in the same manner, only make sure to run a screwdriver over the edge of the ceiling. Be very careful, as you only want to create an area for the tape to stick to; you do not want it to be noticeable. You should also apply tape to other surfaces, such as baseboards and window or door frames, in the same manner. It is also important to prepare the floor for painting, so cover it with a dust cloth.

These cloths are made of a number of materials, some of which might be better than others. Canvas drop cloths are the best, but they are also the most expensive. As a professional, however, you likely will want to choose this option, as you can reuse them. Alternatively, you can purchase plastic or paper cloths. Make sure to tape the cloths to the ground, especially at the edges, and if you can, remove all furniture out of the room. If you can't, cover the furniture with these cloths.

4.3 Priming the Surface

You might believe that you are ready to prime at this point, but there are still things that one must do before applying the primer. You must, for example, cut in the primer. This is essentially the action of outlining the room in primer. You will take a small paintbrush, one that is about 55mm, dip it into the paint until about 1/3 of the brush is covered, and then create bands of primer around the wall edges where it meets ceilings, frames, hinges, and baseboards.

When cutting in, you might choose to do the entire room at once, which will help you to get done more quickly. However, this also will allow the border you create to dry, which means it might not blend well when applying the rest of the primer. It's best to cut in and then paint at once, which will create a seamless, smooth look. Remember, a primer is designed to seal the wall, prevent the growth of mould, and to give a smooth surface for paint.

Begin to paint the primer in small sections with a roller, moving the tool from the top to the bottom, and then from one side to the other. Using a V or W-shaped stroke is ideal until the section is completed. Refill the roller with primer, and then complete the next section, always making sure to overlap the areas where the primer is wet. This is known as 'working to a wet edge,' and it helps to prevent the appearance of streaks. Allow the primer to dry. 

Allow the primer to dry completely, and then use a fine-grit sandpaper to lightly remove ridges, bumps, and other imperfections on the surface. Using a damp towel or sponge, wipe the wall after sanding, and allow it to dry. At this point, you can apply an undercoat, if you like, or get ready to apply the paint.

4.4 Painting Simple Walls

Now, you are ready to paint. Before starting a painting job, it is important to mix the paint with a stick or mixing tool. Also, note that you should refill a paint tin with the paint in another tin when it's half empty. This way, you will avoid noticeable variations in colour. If you have a lot of paint, such as when using large US gallon buckets, you should do the same. When the paint is ready, cut in the room a second time, but this time with the paint, not the primer. You should still have your painter's  tape up, and make sure when you apply the paint, that you brush it onto the wall first, not the tape. When most of the paint is off the brush, only then should you begin to overlap your strokes to the tape.

This way, you will not be wasting paint and the odds are lower that the paint will seep under it. Apply the paint with a roller in the same way that you apply the primer; working in small areas from the ceiling to the floor. Work from the ceiling to the floor, and then from one side of the wall to the other, ensuring that you blend the areas together as you move on. Use V or W-shape strokes once again, and do not pick up the roller, especially when creating your first strokes. As you work on overlapping the areas that are already painted, lightly lift up the roller to avoid leaving any marks. For the best results, you might require a second coat. Before applying it, allow the first coat to completely dry, usually between two and four hours.

Finally, you can remove the painter's tape. If it is left on for too long, it might tear or small pieces might be left behind. Use a utility knife to carefully remove the tape, and then look closely to remove any small pieces left behind. Thoroughly clean all of the rollers and brushes, and then tightly seal the paint containers before attempting to move them.

4.5 Painting Effects

Now that you have a basic understanding of how to paint, you might be interested in learning how to paint in order to create certain effects, such as stencils and graining, or how to use special effects paint.

There are some beautiful stencils on the market, and many clients will want to incorporate them into their finished rooms. Stencils look difficult, but the process is quite easy. You can only stencil over paint that is already dry, so keep that in mind. You will have to measure carefully in order to use a stencil, so a variety of measuring tools might be required in addition to the same tools you used when painting. Additionally, you will require special brushes, known as stencil brushes, which are round with flat-bottomed bristles.

Determine where you are going to start the stencilling, and tape the stencil to the dry wall with painter's tape. First, you will use the dry brush method, which will give you a base to paint upon. To do this, just dip the tip of the brush into the paint, and then remove any excess by dapping the brush on a piece of kitchen roll. Use this brush to place the first layer of paint in the stencil, again, by dapping it on.

Once that is in place, you will put another coat, this time applying the paint with a heavier hand over the openings of the stencil.

Do not, however, brush the paint over the openings, as it is too easy for the paint to seep underneath. To make sure the paint remains where it should, wear gloves and press down around the openings when stippling to ensure lines are sharp. When the stencil is completely filled in, you are ready to move it to the next spot... before you do, however, use a pencil to lightly trace the registration points, small openings on the stencil that allow you to line one next to the other. To make sure you are moving the stencil to the correct spot, consider using a spirit level. Continue painting the stencil across the wall until the area is covered with the desired design.

Graining

You also might be interested in learning how to apply a graining effect, which will make the surface look like fine wood.

To do this, you will require the following in addition to your basic painting supplies:

*Two shades of brown water-based paint with eggshell or satin finish

*An angled trim brush

*Paint rollers - 6-inch and 12-inch

*Clear glaze

*Paint comb

*Wood-grain rocker

To begin, apply painter's tape to the wall as instructed above, and then pour one of the brown paints, depending on the effect you want to imitate, into a paint tray. Use the trim brush to cut in at the edges, and then use a large, 12-inch roller, to apply the paint to the rest of the wall. At this point, the process is the same as painting a regular wall.

As soon as the paint is applied, take a three sided paint comb and use the large or medium side along the stripe. This will create lines in the paint. Don't worry about staying straight as you create the lines, as real wood is not straight. In fact, try to twist the wrist when you can to add variations and curves. Next, take a wood-graining rocker at the top of the strip, and keep the handle pointed towards your body. The edges will overlap what you have created. Pull it down the wall and rotate the handle to create a heartwood effect. Rotate the handle down, and then back up to create knots. Remember, real wood has a number of variations, so make sure to use these variations in the graining effect. Repeat these steps until the area is completely covered, making sure to place each new stripe directly next to the other.

Activity #2

Estimated Time: 10 minutes

Now that you have mastered priming and painting simple walls, you can move on to learning how to create certain effects. Once you have finished painting a room for a client, they might want to incorporate some new paint décor.You can include a variety of beautiful stencils over your dry paint using a stencil brush and the dry brush method. There are also special effect paints on the market including metallic, pearlfinish, chalkboard, and suede paints, as well as glitter glazes. These specialised paints can be utilised to add a touch of glamour to an area, or to transformwalls into featured walls.

You can also use these paints to add an elegant trim to radiators, or woodwork. There is one last technique you may be interested in learning as a painting and decorating professional. If your client would like for the surface area to like fine wood, what method can you use to achieve this for them? What supplies will you need to achieve this? How do you perform this effect?

4.6 Special Effects Paint

If you want to take a bit of the work out of it, there are also a number of special effect paints on the market.

Here are some of the most common: 

Metallic paints - these paints are ideal for trims and for fixtures such as radiators. You might also find metallic paints that are designed for walls or woodwork. Metallic paint is applied just like regular paint, but it takes a bit of focus and care to create a good finish. This is especially true when painting over a large area, as it will likely leave marks. The best way to avoid this is to cut in first, and then quickly apply vertical strokes with a short-pile roller. This might

take some practice before offering it to clients.

Pearl-finish paints - pearl-finish paint is another option, and it brings a luxurious feel to woodwork and trim, or when applied with stencils. As with metallic paint, pearl-finish can be difficult to apply, as brush marks will be visible. So, it's important that you only paint in one direction.

Glitter glaze - if you want to create a touch of class or glamour, a glitter glaze is an excellent choice. You can use stencils to

apply the glaze, paint it directly onto the wall over existing paint, or apply it with stamps.

Chalkboard paint - many people see the benefits of having a chalkboard in their homes, and now chalkboard paint has become easy to access in the UK. This paint is applied to MDF, and is perfect for the kitchen, study, office, or children's room.

Suede paint - you will find that suede paint best works to transform walls that will appear as feature walls. It can also be used to create contrast when applied with stencils, especially on a matt wall.

FACT

Wallpaper has been around for hundreds of years with the earliest mention in Europe dating to 1481. At that time, it only consisted of individual sheets pasted together before painting. After several developments in the industry, production rose steadily from 5 million rolls in 1851, to over 32 million in 1874

Source: coatings.org.uk

4.7 Wallpapering

Wallpapering is another option for decorating a room, and it comes in almost endless choices in regards to colour and style.Wallpaper looks like it is difficult to apply, but it is fairly easy when you learn how to do it. The rest of this module will focus on wallpapering.

*How much wallpaper you will need.

*International Performance Symbols for Wallpaper.

*Tools for the Job.

In order to wallpaper, you should gather the following tools:

*Step ladder

*Tape measure

*Wallpaper adhesive/stripper

*Stripping knife

*Sponge

*Pasting table

*Pasting brush

*Plumb line

*Trimming knife

*Scissors

*Paper hanging brush

*Preparing the Walls

Before you can apply wallpaper to walls, you must make sure that the walls are correctly prepared. Thus, you must remove the wallpaper that is currently on the walls. You must determine what type of wallpaper is present. There is both strippable and non-strippable wallpaper available. Strippable wallpaper can simply be pulled away from the wall. Non-strippable wallpaper must be soaked and then the adhesive must be scraped away. One of the easiest ways to do this is to mix hot water with unscented fabric softener in a 1:1 ratio. Apply this with a sponge, and then allow it to soak in for about 10 minutes. Using a stripping knife, remove the paper.

Keep in mind, if you are pulling wallpaper from drywall, you cannot allow it to soak too long or the wall will become damaged. There are also steam-powered strippers on the market that allow you to strip the wallpaper much more quickly. This is a great investment for those who start their own painting and wallpaper business. Once all of the paper is removed, wash the wall with hot, soapy water, and make sure to scrape the wall to remove any residual paste. Dry the wall, and then you are ready to wallpaper.

Preparing to Wallpaper

Now that the walls are clean, they are ready to wallpaper, right? Possibly. If there are imperfections on the wall, or you are hanging expensive or embossed wallpaper, it is recommended that you apply a lining first. You willapply this paper horizontally, not vertically, and apply it using the same methods given below. Allow the paper to dry for 12 hours before applying the actual wallpaper.

Cross Lining

Most wallpaper manufacturers recommend that you cross line your walls prior to hanging wallpaper. As there is no pattern to match, cross lining can be started on any wall. Measure the width of the wall and add on 8cm for trimming. Paste the paper and fold it in a concertina to make it easy to handle when hanging. Make sure you leave the paper to soak for the recommended time. When cross lining you should always leave a 2mm gap at the butt joints.

How to Cross Line around a window

Hang the first piece of paper along the wall at ceiling level. With your knife cut through the paper from both corners of the reveal and wrap the paper under the reveal and trim.

Hang the second piece of paper overlapping the first piece level with the top of the window reveal, wrap it round and trim.

Splice through the two pieces of paper and remove the top piece of paper along with the piece underneath.

Once you have removed the off cuts slide the paper down so that there is a two millimetre gap between the two sheets.

Hang the next piece of paper on the opposite side of the window reveal repeating the last stage.

Hang the next two pieces of paper so that they hang just below the window ledge, making sure that there is a two millimetre gap at the butt joints.

Cut a length of paper the whole width of the wall and hang it level with the underside of the window ledge and overlapping the previous two pieces of paper.

With your knife splice through the two pieces of paper at both ends of the window ledge and remove the off cuts.

Slide the whole of the paper down so that there is a 2mm gap at the butt joints.

Then Hang the last piece of paper leaving a 2mm gap at the butt joint.

To ensure you have the correct amount of wallpaper, you must measure with precision. Measure the total perimeter of the room, which includes the doors and windows, in metres, and then divide by the wallpaper width. Most are 53m wide, so you would divide by that number. You must also multiply the height of the room by the number of widths of wallpaper required to get the total length, and then divide once again by the length of the roll. Again, standard wallpaper is usually 10m, so in this case, divide by 10, and the answer is the number of rolls you will require. Always buy an extra roll, at a minimum, just in case.

Cutting Wallpaper

Take the measurement of the height of the wall, and then add 10cm before cutting the first strip, and then use the first strip to cut the second strip, and so on and so forth. Keep in mind, if the wallpaper is patterned, you should line up the pattern before cutting.

Mix the Adhesive

Once the wallpaper is cut and ready, you should mix the adhesive, if applicable. Some wallpaper has adhesive on it already, and in this case, you do not need to add additional adhesive. You simply need to use a sponge to apply water to the back of the paper.

Pasting the Wallpaper

To begin the hanging process, lay the wallpaper strips on the pasting table. If the wallpaper has adhesive on the back, simply use your sponge and warm water to activate the adhesive. If you are using adhesive, take the pasting brush and apply the paste to the back of the wallpaper using arm movements that go upwards and outwards. Make sure to look at the directions, as some wallpaper requires a 'soak time,' which allows the wallpaper to expand.  When the paste is on the wallpaper, fold the ends in towards the middle, and then prepare to hang it.

Decide where to hang the wallpaper. It's best to start by the window, chimney breast, or in a corner. Draw a vertical line with a pencil using a plumb line. This will help you keep the pattern straight. Position the first strip and press it gently against the topmost part of the wall, making sure to leave about 50mm to trim off at the end. Take your papering brush and begin brushing the wallpaper to ensure it is against the wall and remove any bubbles.

Take the end of the bristled end of the brush, and then press the end, that extra 50mm, into the space where the ceiling meets the wall. Trim the excess away with your scissors, and then push the rest back into place. Take your second strip of wallpaper and place it next to the first, smoothing it into place. Make sure that the pattern matches, and that the seam is as close as possible to the previous strip. Continue like this until the wall iscovered.

Dealing with Awkward Areas

Unfortunately, not all walls are straight and clean, and you will have to wallpaper around doors, windows, wall switches, etc. When wallpapering around doorways, the simple thing to do is to make a diagonal cut into the wallpaper where it will go around the corner of the door frame. Then, use your scissors to cut away the excess. You can do the same with a window frame or sill. To wallpaper around wall switches, make sure that you turn off the electricity, and again, make diagonal cuts into the paper where the corner of the switch sits. Leave about 6mm of paper, and then remove the plate. Tap the paper into that area, and then when dry, put the switch plate back into place and turn the electricity back on.

Activity #3

Estimated Time: 10 minutes

Although you will work with paint quite often, you also have the option of selecting wallpaper when decorating a room. Wallpaper comes in a variety of colours, and patterns, and once you have learned the technique, it can be very easy to apply. Imagine that you have been hired to decorate a new client's bedroom and you have chosen wallpaper in lieu of paint. The bedroom has old, outdated wallpaper and the client would like to replace it with an embossed wallpaper. After gathering your ladder, measuring tape, wallpaper adhesive, stripping knives, pasting brush, and all the other necessary tools, what is your next step? Given the client's specific requests, are there any additional steps that are required when prepping the wall? Explain how you would go about measuring, cutting, and finally, applying the wallpaper.

Module Summary

This fourth module explored the acts of basic painting and wallpapering. You learned a bit more about the tools required for painting, as well as the preparations that are required before painting. This module also explained the proper way to apply painter's tape, as well as how to prepare the floor and room for painting.

This module also focused on the basics of painting a wall, including how to use primer, and then how to prepare the primer for the paint. The module further explains a simple method for painting a basic wall, and it gives tips on how to cut in both primer and paint with a paint brush. It also explains how to use a roller, including the movements, to cover the wall most effectively. You also received information about how to make simple effects whilst painting, including stencilling and applying fake graining. You were given step by step instructions on how to make stencilling look its best, and how to create wood graining effects.This module additionally gave instruction on wallpapering.  This includes how to effectively prepare to apply wallpaper to a room, including what supplies you might need, information about the different types of wallpaper and how to apply the wallpaper to the wall. Finally, the module explained how to wallpaper tricky areas of the room, such as around doors, windows, and wall switches.